MARIPOSA MIEDOSA

Hola gringos,

Title translation: Scared Butterfly. There have been a lot of butterfly references in my brief Mexico stay. First of all, in Mexico "mariposa" is a euphemism for gay. Second, I chose "Mariposa Miedosa" as my Luchador (professional wrestling) name. Third, I went to the mountains on Sunday to see millions of Monarch Butterflies. These amazing creatures travel thousands of miles from the Unites States and Canada to their winter breeding grounds in the Mexican mountains. Just like me, I also flew to my Mexican winter breeding grounds. Here is a picture of one of the forest rangers watching us tourists watch the butterflies.

The trip up the mountain was hell! We started out on foot. The trail was very rocky and straight uphill. After 15 minutes of arduous trekking we were getting tired and asked how much further to the butterflies -- 2 more hours! I almost cried -- OK, I did cry. After I dried my eyes, I started heading back downhill to rent a horse. The irritating thing is, they were following us knowing that we would never make it. So I picked the sturdiest horse and I was on my way uphill with my 11 year old guide Malquimedes. He was very timid at first but later he wouldn't stop talking. I understood about 10%. Here are a couple of pictures of my buddy. Notice the shoes --who needs fancy hiking boots? -- and no socks!! This kid had no trouble getting up and down the mountain on foot. His eight year old cousin also made the trip as a guide.

Here is Malquimedes with my intrepid steed. I named her "too stupid not to run away from the fat gringo." She was very gentle but had a mischievous colt that followed us all the way. The colt particularly enjoyed trying to pass us in narrow, steep areas.

The trip cost $15 with a horse. I gave my buddy a $5 tip and he was very excited. I later saw him blowing it on video games in the little store. Good for him!! His older brother (really cute) took us for coffee at their home. It was really nice and they served us coffee for free. It was called cafe olla and had some flavors I was not familiar with -- it was really good!

Here's my art shot of scenery along the trail.

And finally, here's the Mariposa Miedosa in his natural habitat. The ranger looked really nervous when I started to sit down. I managed to do it without killing one butterfly. But he looked at my ass and calculated the potential for 137 butterfly deaths. The mariposas liked me, they really liked me! Notice the one on my knee. His nickname is Monty. He promised to keep in touch. But he will be gone in a few more months. Just like the Mexico City mariposas, they flutter and flit, land on my knee, we get friendly, and they disappear after a few months.

I'm heading to a beach in the state of Oaxaca for the holiday. It's a 14 hour bus trip. I will be staying at a beach cabana run by an expatriate American guy in Zipolite. Zipolite is known for being laid back, gay friendly, cheap, and the nude beach. Don't worry, I scared enough animals last week, I think I'll keep the suit on. I'll tell you about it next week.

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Until then, affectionately yours, GagginMexico fmarlman@aol.com

HAPPY VIRGIN DAY

Hola gringos,

Did you miss virgin day? It was Wednesday (ironic to have Virgin day on Hump day isn't it?). It was the Fiesta of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Catholicism is so much more ingrained in this country than anywhere else I've been.. For example, the names of businesses.

Please note that the sign indicates that the Jesus Pharmacy offers discounts. Well it's newer in the business than its competition "God Pharmacy." They are probably trying to build a little market share before they jack up the prices. It's always this way with deity businesses. No kidding they really do have the pharmacy of God. They also have pharmacies named after monastic orders and astrological signs. A little voodoo with your science never hurts.

Just a little background on the Virgin of Guadalupe. She is the Mexican version of the Virgin Mary with brown skin. Of course, the original Mary very well might have had brown skin. Right after the Spanish started their campaign to convert the Indians to Catholicism she appeared to an Indian named Juan Diego. JD told the priests, but they didn't believe him. So she appeared again and put her picture on his cape as proof that she had appeared to him. This cape is what is on display in the Basilica of the Virgin in the north of Mexico city. The cape display has a really odd system of moving sidewalks in front of it so you can't stop and gawk. You just glide right by and pay your respects quickly.

The Virgin of Guadalupe has got to be one of the greatest gimmicks of all time. In the 1500's They were having a hard time trying to push Catholicism on the Indians. Then they got smart and decided to market it as something too good for the Indians. The priests at first "couldn't believe" she could have brown skin and appear to a mere Indian. The desired Indian response, "Well damn right I'm good enough for your virgin to appear -- or to buy your product." Brilliant!! and it worked. It turns out that Juan Diego was no mere peasant. He worked with the priests and was a former Aztec nobleman. So whether you believe it was a miracle or an invention of the priests, either way it was marketing genius.

I'll leave you today with a picture of my local bookstore -- sort of the neighborhood Barnes & Noble. My favorite things here are the National Geographics in English from the 60's & 70's. Sixty cents for one or two for a dollar. The smell of mildew is free.

Teaser for next week. I'm going this Sunday to the mountains to look at the migration of Monarch Butterflies. This is their winter home and there are millions of them in one spot.

Affectionately yours, GagginMexico. fmarlman@aol.com

MONSTER AND LOVER

Hola gringos, sorry if you were worried about me. I am a lot better. My mom and sister Linda came to visit bearing gifts from afar -- two wise women. OK, I'd been hoping for three wise men with beautiful eyes and a passive nature from the east of Mexico, say Veracruz. But these two women brought real love and presents. Mom bought me a suit, I now own three which I think will be OK if I get a job. Linda brought me a laptop and sweaters (it's quite cold here in the mornings), and a digital camera from my other sister Karen. I'm almost a real person again with possessions and everything. I promise that I will have pictures next week and an upbeat blog.

I know a lot of you wish I would just come home. I will if I don't get a job soon (I have an interview next week). But I hate being told no and I feel like Mexico City is trying to tell me "No, Gringo!". Then it turns around and does something wonderful. We had a Posada celebration at the Spanish Language School. Half of us stood outside portraying Joseph and Mary on their journey to Bethlehem and sang a song asking to be admitted into the inn. The other half stood inside and sang back responses and finally let us in. Inside was a great punch with fruit and sugar cane (fun to chew the sugar cane after you drink the punch). They had two huge pinatas for the kids. My profesora also pushed me out there to take a couple of good whacks at it. Then they served tostadas and chicken with mole. I don't think Joseph and Mary had it quite that nice -- a great tradition. Coming up on December 12th is the day of the Virgin of Guadalupe. I'll write more about that next week.

About the title for this week's blog -- it is a quote from the author Paco Ignacio Taibo II. He was originally from Spain but has lived in Mexico City for 40 years. He writes detective stories based in Mexico City. In an interview he described Mexico city as "a monster and a lover." I know exactly how he feels.

Affectionately yours, GAGGinMexico fmarlman@aol.com